Tuesday 4 October 2016

Dutchland and Deutschland



We call the country Holland and its inhabitants Dutch, however it is known in Europe as the Netherlands, and the region “Holland” is actually only a small largely reclaimed area around the ports of Rotterdam and the Hook of Holland. It is such a flat and compact country that we didn’t see any inclines until we visited Maastricht near the Belgian border and that hill was such a surprise that we got lost on a bike track trying to navigate to the top of it to see the view.  We had to extract the car very carefully in reverse with some assistance and much to the wonderment of the many Dutch people out for a Sunday walk! Everyone we met in the Netherlands had almost flawless spoken English, were friendly and helpful and we could understand most road signs, apart from the one that said no entry to the cycle path for cars!! We will blame Satnav for that one!

We were both really taken with both Delft and Rotterdam. Delft is a pretty town, virtually untouched in WW2, the home of a famous pottery and full of beautiful old buildings set along the canals. Two great initiatives left us tourists happy: there was a map dispenser on a pole outside our parking building (see below) and both the Niew and Ald Kirkes (one 800 years and the other 650 years old) had toilets inside the church – very sensible!

Along the canals in Delft
Aachen
Some of the OTT decorations in Charlemagne's Church in Aachen

Hours of fun to be had,movable characters on the puppet water fountain!
 Rotterdam has been made-over after being virtually destroyed in the war and it is now a bold, bright and brash city with some wonderful modern architecture. We left our car at our AirBnB and used the waterbuses to get into the city - a relaxed way to get to work, I would think too.  Being the biggest and busiest port in Europe gives Rotterdam plenty of economic capital and the Maritime Museum was well worth a visit too.

We’re back in Germany now, this time for a couple of weeks and have so far travelled down the west side visiting Aachen, Cologne, Bonn, Speyer, Heidelberg, Baden Baden, Ulm and yesterday, Bamberg. We haven’t had to rely on Sally’s rusty German much yet as most people respond to our hesitant inquiries in excellent English.  The main problem comes when trying to translate menus and sometimes what we end up with is a complete surprise – though invariably very delicious!

We had a lovely break staying with old friends from Paris at their place near Bonn; 38 years since we’d last seen each other. They’ve lived all over the world from Washington to Buenos Aires to Abu Dhabi and Bangkok so there were plenty of tales to be told and ideas for our future holidays too!

By concentrating on the 'aldstadts' or old towns which are usually compact mid-city areas full of history and by having plenty of coffee/tea/lunch breaks and spending only at the most 4 hours looking around, we are staying fairly fresh. Picasso and the Impressionists got a battering in the south of France, whereas here it is the churches more than anything that have amazed us by in their size and history. Each church seems to be bigger than the last and they have been renovated to impress with their size and clean lines rather than the more richly decorated churches in other countries in Europe.
Ulm was an interesting juxtaposition of old and new, with modern architecture right next to the centuries old church which was once the tallest building in the world. It seemed to work well and the inner town was very pedestrian friendly too. Bamberg is another picturesque town full of half-timbered houses and multiple churches! Both are UNESCO World Heritage places.

Bookshop in a deconsecrated Church in Maastricht - great re-use!

Ulm - old and new

Schloss Drachenburg,Konigsberg looking along the Rhine

Speyer, site of one of the largest churches in Germany

Autumn in Schloss Schwetzingen, near Speyer

Schwetzingen

Bacharach and not a Bert in sight!

Speyer Cathedral

Ratshouse, Ulm

Bamberg, beside the Dom see http://www.bavaria.by/bamberg-old-town-unesco-bavaria

The formal gardens at Schloss Schwetzingen, near Speyer, made an impression; everything was geometrically laid out on a huge scale. Three hundred year old trees that had been espaliered and painstakingly trimmed were works of art and the various temples and sculptures placed around the gardens often surprised with their beauty.  There were lots of great photo opportunities around every corner.

Tonight we are staying in an apartment in a converted railway station at Droyssig which has great hosts, fabulous views from the window and Tony explored the bike path this afternoon with a 10km ride.
The weather is cooling down now and autumn is showing its colours in the trees – something we miss in Australia.  Hopefully, Copenhagen will not be too icy this coming weekend though tonight they have forecast the slight possibility of snow in northern Europe in the next few days! Brrr…


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